If you thought organic farming was doable, this should make you worry. If you always root for the little guy, you should be downright pissed. If love Will Bucklin, (as I do) this should make you mad. If you love his wine, (I really really do) this should infuriate you.
How does this happen to one of the few wine producers in this country who actually does it right from soil to wine? I could call the state a bunch of inept morons. But really, "ass-hat" is the only appropriate term. They don't even deserve "-hole" in this case.