Willing Spring: Strawberry Fillo Napoleon

I know there's still snow outside. And I am well-aware that the area's growing season is a long way off from the heady agricultural euphoria of a thriving farmers' market. But god help me, I am sick of stews and sweaters. So when I walked past a pint of strawberries and caught the faintest sweet whiff of SoCal spring, my inner Slow Foodist completely caved. I bought these sad little berries wishing, willing for spring. I admit it—I'm forcing the tender proverbial stalks of rhubarb, here. I cleaned off a little corner for myself in the communal kitchen to fool my stomach into thinking it was green and glorious outside. Maybe my mind would follow. So much for living in the moment. But that's what happens when you have a bad case of Spring Fever.

Only slightly sexual

After a good wash and some coaxing with a sharp knife, the berries came alive. Each slice oozed with red juice that stained the carving block pink and the perfume that was on my hands was better than any perfume received or given. Aromatherapy and cooking go hand in hand. And with the iPod blasting, my mind flickered with images of renewal. A time where I can shed the sweater and socks and run barefoot through grass that squishes every so slightly between my toes. Winter is comforting, cocooning. But after a while it gets to be suffocating. I'm ready to peel back the layers and show some skin. Flirt with the sun, the flowers, and the fellow driving in the car next to me.

Ouzo for boozy berries

These berries couldn't be cooked. I didn't want anything braising or roasting. Just sugar and a healthy swig of ouzo to turn this sweet demure pile of strawberries into a heady intoxicating concoction. Black licorice flavor goes really well with the berries. Contrary to what the mind may equate to such a union, it amplifies the "sexy" in strawberry. And I have too many good memories of friends, ouzo, and talking/laughing into the wee hours of the night. A friend called in the middle of this experiment. I told my him what I was making. He cooed over the phone, "Ooooh, I LOVE ouzo." After about an hour in the bowl, you can inhale that light fragrance as you would from any bloom. Intoxicating in taste and amount of liquor. My ouzo-loving friend licked the spoon.

Incantation

You could consider it an "adult fruit salad." Naughty you. Offer it up after a heavy meal. A promise for something different in the weeks to come. If you're really wicked, you can offer it up to a Mormon picnic as a topping for Sister Jensen's Jell-O salad. But I won't go that far. Promise.

It's quite good spooned with whipped cream for an easy fool (is it just me or do English desserts really rock?), used to top a cheesecake, or even just over some ricotta cheese. It can be as slapdash or as proper as you'd like. Sunday left me restless and feeling fiddly enough to play with the last of the frezer's fillo. The whole process done in a kitchen dark from overcast snowing skies is theraputic, if deceiving. The grey air makes the berries look like it's presented to you in Technicolor. And if you make it on a snowy day, it sends a signal from your kitchen to the natural forces at large that you are quite sick of shoveling your walk way. Even if they don't listen, at least you had a good dessert.

Sacrifice for spring

Strawberry Ouzo Mock Napoleons for a Mock Spring Day

1 pint strawberries, washed, hulled, and thinly sliced * up to 2 tablespoons sugar * 1/4 cup ouzo or sambuca * zest of 1/2 orange * 3 sheets fillo, thawed * 1 1/4 cup ricotta or marscapone cheese * powdered sugar to taste and for garnish * juice and zest of 1/2 orange

Combine strawberries, sugar to taste, ouzo, and the zest in a bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least an hour.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter each fillo sheet and layer one on top of each other and place the whole lot on the counter so that the long sides of this rectangle face you. Cut in half down the middle. Cut one side in half in the same direction, then cross-cut into thirds so that it yields 6 pieces. Repeat with the other side. Place on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.

Place one-third of the macerated berries into a blender and puree until smooth. No need to strain. Pour this thick puree back into the bowl with the other berries.

Combine cheese, sugar to taste, and the juice and zest. Now, you're ready to assemble. Take one cut piece of fillo and place it on the plate. Using a spoon or a piping bag, place a bit of the sweetened cheese onto the fillo. Top with boozy strawberries. Repeat until you've used three fillo pieces, ending with the third. Dust with powdered sugar because it looks pretty, and well, it's still snowing outside. Serve immediately with more boozy juices spooned onto the plate. Eat thinking of lilacs and green green grass.

Comments

[BNA]

Dude -- you're killing me. The strawberries here are only vaguely pink. I will, however, be stealing the ouzo idea for later.

[Ivonne]

Unbelievable! Beautiful dessert ... the photos are mesmerizing. How will I make it until strawberry season comes ... you have tempted me beyond belief!

[Christiane]

Tell you what, Sarah. You bring these for dessert, you can stay for dinner.
I'm jealous of the ripe strawberries.

[Rorie]

My god, Vanessa. My god. I can almost taste the decadence.

[Kady]

Wow. Talk about food porn. I will never look at a strawberry the same way again. hehe. Your dessert looks fabulous! I've never had ouzo before..definitely adding it to my "must-try" list.

[Adrienne]

Who cares what the season is, dessert looks scrumptious! March is the most difficult month for me-- not quite spring, not too wintery. I swear, if I eat another mandarin, I will die.

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

ah beautiful, beautiful! Love love it. Funny coincidence, I made strawberry tarts last weekend!!
I also have a similar dessert where my filo are chocolate and I use bananas and raspberries. I want to make it now ;-)

[ilva]

Well, your strawberries sounds and looks a lot better than mine, that's for sure, Vanessa!

[shaz]

you have a great eye. Great pix.

[julsitos]

wow... got to this blog from rice&noodles...

wow... your entries are orgasmic. yum yum....

hope you try out some filipino desserts soon... like mango tartlets... or napoleones... or ensaymada... or halo-halo... or piaya...or ginomis or.....oh heck!

cheers from the philippines!

[Sara]

i hate ouzo (sorry, just not a fan of the licorice) or sambuco for that matter, but your entry looks so lovely you may have changed my mind.

[Erin]

Oh, damn, this looks yuuuummmy. I'm really surprised it's been so easy to fine good strawberries right now, I've had a lot of luck with getting summer-like berries lately.

[Erin]

Yeah, I meant "find" - and I'm not even going to try to make a joke out of the typo.

[genevieve]

gorgeous dessert! it's funny...i've done the same. despite the 20-degree weather here that is still calling for comfort foods, i am shunning the squash and stews and embracing salads and strawberries.

[Jaay]

OMG V!! That is one of the most beautiful dessert I have ever seen, I swear it is. I yearn to make something that looks so elegant & sophisticated, yet so delicious and consumable.

The Ouzo & berries I would have never thought of. I'm curious now I have to admit. And fabulous photos as usual, can I book you to shoot my next project? haha

[mae]

This is an utterly SEXY dessert Vanessa! How can i resist? Can't wait for strawberry picking season.

I had something similar to this the other night - except without the strawberry. We call it 'cream slice' it was wickedly naughty layer of 2 inch cream. Ha, maybe i need to lose a little fat i gained from stews hiding inside my sweater before i can flirt with the sun and let it kiss my skin...

[vanessa]

BNA—definitely do the ouzo. or sambuca. either way, let me know how you like it. if you do the simple syrup thing to the berry/ouzo mix and puree it, there's a bitchin' sorbet in the future :)

Ivonne—i lucked out with these berries. they were beautiful. not the most flavorful, but certainly better than what I could've gotten. thanks for visiting!

Christiane—it's a deal. I will be over with bells on.

Rorie—you crack me up! that compliment coming from you, thank you, madame!!!

Kady—ouzo by itself (and the cheap grade) will put hair on your chest. i much prefer to mix it with something as opposed to taking shots with burly gentlemen.

Adrienne—I am with you on the citrus. Every time I go to my produce place, I ask the guys, "so what's good?" and they'll say "the fremont tangerines are good." and i swear I'm going to cry.

Bea—that sounds like such a good dessert! and with the strawberries, i think everyone is ready for some sunshine :)

ilva—thanks for the compliment, especially from your talented photographic eye.

shaz—thanks :) the only good thing about an overcast day is that it makes for good picture taking.

julsitos—welcome to the blog! glad you found your way here. i've never made filipino desserts, but mercy, i have tasted many and they are GOOD. In college, I hung out with the Filipino kidsd and their families would always hook them up with some mad good food. I was so jealous—i wanted to be filipino, too :)

Sara—i know, i'm not usually a fan of the black licorice either. but it works really well with the berries, you hardly recognize it. weird.

Erin—i did luck out. i usually get my produce (since i only buy for myself) at a place in SLC called Liberty Heights Fresh. A little pricey, but they seem to have the best produce and i like helping out local businesses whenever my meager budget allows.

genevieve—i hear ya. there's been like four hours of sunshine today and i feel like a new woman. then it started to hail. geez.

Jaay—girl, you call me and i will be in NC and in your fabulous presence! i hope all is well with the exciting opportunities :)

mae—strawberry picking season!?! I wish there were places like that here. It simply is too arid, it's unforgiving on little berry plants. the closest i've come is one plant than took root from its pot. but we never get to enjoy them because the dog gets to the berries first. you can tell when they're ripe because he'll come inside with a red stained snout and smelling very sweet. and btw, british desserts ROCK. lucky you to be in the thick of it, literally :)

[barbie2be]

this looks amazing.

[Tea]

Gorgeous! I can almost taste the spring. I can't wait to try making this. Thanks for the inspiration.

[MM]

Crikey, I got hot and flustered just looking at that dessert! Droolicious!

[ces]

such a very tempting dessert indeed!

[keiko]

Oh Vanessa, I can almost taste the wonderful flavour, I love spring and I love strawberries...

[vanessa]

barbie2be, tea, & ces—thanks!

MM—who knew strawberries could people all hot and bothered?!?

keiko—i love that they come right at the beginning of the season. such a great way to wake up your palate!

[Kat]

I will definitely try this! Great read. Thanks!

[kitchenmage]

oh man, this is gorgeous...so gorgeous i had to try it last night... what i ended up making was lovely, it just wasn't quite this... :-)

it won't let me link to the post, but it's here:
http://blog.kitchenmage.com/2006/04/foolish_berries.html