she craves

La Ney Ferme Winter Bounty = Korean Winter Meal

It's easy to cook in the summer. In fact, summer bounty means cooking is minimal, yet the possibilities abundant. Winter is a different story. Especially a winter here. Gone are tomatoes and eggplants. No more fresh chilies (maybe some of the dried if you prepared enough to make some).

Our winters mean minimal production for the home gardener. But for farmers with hoop houses and other means to extend the growing season like La Ney Ferme, it means a chance to stretch out the lives of tender young salad greens and herbs (who prefer the cooler climate anyway). Root vegetables thrive in times like this. Farmers like these create from soil so rich, even the humble vegetables taste sweet, complex, and nuanced.  You shouldn't waste a thing. 

But the problem is most of us have no idea what to do with a turnip or rutabaga. Even then root vegetables with leafy greens only yield a bit of bulb. What to do with the rest other than to throw it all away? So when I got a share from a cold December, I needed a bit more inspiration.

Enter the lost realm of kitchen knowledge and recipes. We all have a source somewhere down our ancestral line or through a quick google search. With a bit of superficial research we discover that there's more to life than potatoes (blasphemy, I know) and that in fact, a bit of winter root veg and leafy greens can yield a magnificently easy dish for cold and busy times such as these.

For me, it's a recipe for a Korean style of soup that requires a handful of aromatic ingredients, mostly local. And for the hardy bitter greens, they yield beautifully in a quick and simple kimchi.

Scott Mowbray: The Rise of the New Food Culture

So gassy are the arguments about our food system and its effect on life and health in America -- arguments that hop from obesity to Type 2 diabetes to GMOs to food deserts to e coli to high fructose corn syrup -- that it's easy to miss a heartening truth, one we can be thankful for in this season of eating. The truth is that America is in the middle of inventing a new food culture, and no one, not the foodies nor the food activists nor the Grocery Manufacturers Association of America, can predict how powerful a force for change it may be. This food culture, spreading across the land like the bloom on a soft-ripened cheese, has the power to cure a lot of what ails us. Deep cultural change is the one force that can overcome generations of political and market inertia that have led to our overweight condition. A taste for better food could lift us from the adolescent excesses of our 20th century eating habits -- and begin to reduce the obesity that has been the result.

American food culture in the last century swallowed the factory-to-table promise whole, a promise that seemed validated by the triumphs of nutrition science: Diet was perfectible for the shiny, fast-paced life that was God's destiny for Americans. Daily we would rise to vitamin-enriched spongy white breads and toaster pastries and powdered breakfast drinks; we would lunch on mass-manufactured hamburgers; we would snack on Hostess Twinkies; dine on huge steaks. We would replace water with soda, and make our beer taste like water. We would conquer the world on this high-octane fuel, in vast portions for our growing bodies. The anonymous food scientist was the de facto head chef of the nation. None of the factory foods, taken alone, was or is bad; taken together, though, and dominating our diet: That turned out to be a different story.

The perfectible diet revealed its fatal flaws when chronic disease rates (first heart disease, much more recently Type 2 diabetes) rocketed and were linked as early as the 1950s to the supersized, supercharged, supersalted, superfatted foods we loved. But we would also awaken, slowly, to the limitations -- in variety and in taste -- of the food we ate. Newly prosperous Americans traveled and encountered deep food cultures abroad, in Europe, India, and Southeast Asia. Maybe pasta in cans wasn't the best pasta? Among the travelers were people like Alice Waters, who brought the real-food word home and insisted that a whole new story about American food was possible. The environmental movement blossomed, throwing light on problems with farming and fishing, and beginning to reconnect the idea that quality of food supply depends on quality of farming practices.

via www.huffingtonpost.com

Better taste leads to better health? Why the hell not?

EAT HERE: Naked Fish (SLC, Utah) As Told by Mary Brown Malouf & Salt Lake Mag

In my job, I eat around and out so many times–enchiladas, foie gras, sopressata, brussels sprouts, whatever–that I hardly ever get to experience the shock of a new flavor. Unless you travel the world eating everything that crawls out from under a rock, like Mr. Bourdain does, novelty necessarily gets rarer.

That's even more true, if things can be more true, for those of us who write about eating in a particular area. And truest for those of us who write about eating in Utah.

So it was a delight to be shocked–and delighted–by the taste of a simple raw oyster at Naked Fish last night.

via www.saltlakemagazine.com

Danny Bowien Interview - GQ December 2012: Restaurants + Bars: GQ

We were somewhere�around�mapo,�on the edge of the catfish, when the peppercorns began to take hold. I remember saying something like, "Maybe I should slow down...," pushing a plate of Mongolian long beans into the cluttered center of the overburdened table. And suddenly the numb rush was upon me, a long, white, buzzy tunnel. At the end of it, I could still see the women across the table talking, but I could no longer quite make out the words. On the sound system, the Stones' "Shattered"�sounded like it was being played through� the blades of a helicopter. I reached for the cool-looking pinkish drink on the table and took a deep gulp, only to remember it was a michelada made of Bud Light spiked with smoked-clam juice, chile oil, and a rim of more crushed chiles and Sichuan peppercorns. I felt like a Looney Tunes character trying to quench the fire of a jalapeño with a nice draught of Tabasco. Peeling myself off the ceiling, I came down face-to-face with a leering bright-yellow forty-foot dragon. On the wall, a cavalry of luridly painted Red Chinese generals on horseback regarded me with bemused,� pitying expressions.�

via www.gq.com

This has nothing to do with Thanksgiving. But everything to do with good food. Misison Chinese. One of my favorite places to eat in the country.

Go there. Eat there. Give Thanks.

Braised & Roasted Turkey | Michael Ruhlman

via ruhlman.com

I'm normally not a blind follower. I'm painfully skeptical. Except when it comes to anything Michael Ruhlman says. It's kinda like that game "Simon Says," only with cooking. And if Ruhlman says to do it, then damn it, I'll at least try it (sorry, the skeptic still talking).

So here it is for Thanksgiving (pull out your frozen bird, y'all; good for you if you got a fresh bird...not start brining) -- the best way to cook a turkey. Sounds logical and delicious to me.

she craves ... EVOLUTION

A change is coming, folks. Long overdue. Kind of like the oil change for the car, the haircut and bang trim, or the pile of clean laundry that needs to be ironed, this site is getting some TLC.

There's a lot more in store here. More writing, more food, more techniques, more functionality, general nerdery, and more, well, activity from me. 

This metamorphasis will be painless for you. I wish I could say the same for me. But come hell or high water, the change will arrive for the better.

Look for a newer and better she craves on February 3, 2013.

Until then, there will be weekly content to get your through the cold season. You might as well stay in the kitchen or read a book.

Egg Muffins (Not the Golden Arches Kind)

Three things make me unapologetically American: 1.) Blue jeans. I would wear them anywhere and everywhere. 2.) Cars. Public transport around a cool city is great. But I would be lying if I said I didn't love the fact that I have my car around a city that has only recently realized the importance of public transport. Not to mention, my occasional wanderlust and restrictive budget make a certain type of impromptu travel a must. Viva el road trip!

And 3.) I. Love. Breakfast. Not a pastry and shot of espresso. Not a meal replacement shake in a can. Give me the hearty, the protein-laden, the hot. I want a proper breakfast. 

Breaking the fast is something I take seriously. Folks who know me know that the term "hangry" applies to me. 

"Hungry" + "Angry" = "Hangry" = Vanessa without meals

I've never understood those who claim who "forget to eat." How the hell do you forget that your stomach is eating itself and making uncomfortably loud noises among polite company? It has been, after all, approximately 8-10 hours between dinner and the morning. It's time to eat. So eat these.

From the Blogosphere: 23 Thanksgiving Desserts That Are Full Of Bourbon

Before we proceed any further, please note that although some of these recipes refer to the bourbon in them as "optional," it is not. For best results, please do not hesitate to add 1 Tbsp. bourbon to whatever quantity is called for.

This recipe calls for jarred sour cherries in syrup (NOT the same as maraschino, please, FYI), but you could also use thawed frozen cherries. Either way, adding bourbon is a great idea. Get the recipe at Bon Appétit.

Would not advise baking with peaches in November except that these are so goddamn adorable. And come to think of it, drained canned peaches would probably work just fine. Get the recipe at Smitten Kitchen.

via www.buzzfeed.com

It's snowing outside. The market aisles are already barfing Christmas wrapping, candy, and other Paraphernalia. So I guess I have to give in.

But not without my bourbon.

Happy holidays, y'all.

Good Stuff: Charming Beard Coffee, El Recreo

PRODUCT:  Charming Beard Coffee (El Recreo)

Origin:  Beans, are single-origin sourced from Jinotega, in Northern-ish Nicaragua, situated among the country's several natural preserves; Small-batch roasting and packaging done in Salt Lake City, Utah

Flavor: Light roast actually means that - you smell characteristic "coffee" but with that a touch of fruity top notes. Really good expression of cocoa.

How to Best Enjoy:  [prep] Coarser grinds for French press and pour over; would be lovely finer grind in espresso. Would also be gorgeous as an iced coffee. [add-ins] As with other coffees, I never recommend ruining all the effort for good beans with skim milk or flavored creamer. Heavy cream is lovely here. Coconut cream/milk overpowers it. But my favorite is as is, naked,  nada. [sweeteners] Demerera (sugar in the raw) or light brown paired the best; honey lovers avoid clover varieties and try instead w/orange blossom - wow.

Where to Get It: Online here or if sold out, local sources such as Caputo's Market and directly through Charming Beard at Saturday's Artisan Market at Caputo's Market (10am-2pm; check for availability). 

Cool Fact: The company combines the ethos of the charming socialability of SLC Mixers with the backyard, micro-roast passion of La Barba coffee. 

Family Meals Are The Best

Coq au vin. Brown butter sage parpardelle. Butter leaf salad with Slide Ridge Honey Vinaigrette. Fall.

From SELECTIVE ECHO - Amedei Profile (AKA Why Amedei Chocolate Kicks Ass)

For its first fine chocolate festival, Tony Caputo’s Market and Deli is focusing on an industry pioneer that is as well known internationally for its ethical leadership among chocolatiers as it is for its products and distinctive process knowledge. Joining Matt Caputo will be Gabriele Bianchi, sales area manager of the Italian-based Amedei company, at the event which also will feature sweet and savory dishes incorporating chocolate as created by some of Salt Lake City’s most accomplished chefs.

Proceeds from the event will be donated to the Ecuadorian-based Yachana Foundation, which is focused on education and sustainability in the Amazon rainforest. The event begins at 7:30 p.m. on Thursday, Oct. 25, in Caputo’s downtown SLC store. Tickets are $10 in advance and $15 at the door. Optional beverage pairings will be an additional $5.

Among the chefs will be Amber Billingsley (Vinto), Letty Flatt (Deer Valley Resort), Matt Harris (Heirloom Restaurant Group), Ruth Kendrick (Chocolot), Lya Luna (Caputo’s Market), and Viet Pham (Forage). Beverage selections from Epic Brewing Company, Slide Ridge Honey, and Libation wine brokerage also will be available.

via www.selectiveecho.com

Why Utah Doesn't Suck: #41 - Fine Chocolate. Especially This Stuff

A couple of disclaimers.

1.) I am a chocolate fanatic. Not in the Calgon-Take-Me-Away-with-Shitty-Chocolate vein. I'm a fan of the good stuff. Bean to bar. Good technique. Good beans. All of it equals an unparalleled flavor bomb that is fine chocolate. No fillers. No crap. No waxy mouthfeel. Oh and I don't like my chocolate to smell like a marshmalow, either. If that makes me a snob, so be it.

That's why I'm a huge fan of Amedei of Italy. Yeah, yeah, I know. But, Vanessa, what about French chocolate? And Belgian, and Swiss, and ... 

Well in my view, geography doesn't determine chocolate supremacy. Skill and technique do. And Amedei's Cecilia Tessieri has it dialed. No question. No stammering French objections. This stuff is incredible. Even the Academy of Chocolate says so. Tasting Amedei Chuao (picutred above) for the first time is like taking your first sip of an excellent Chateauneuf de Papes or formidable Barolo. It changes you. And you never look at the food the same way again.

A Great Tip for Garlic Lovers from a Great Blogger.

I know some of you are total garlic purists who'd never use anything but freshly peeled and minced garlic, and those people won't need this tip.  I do use fresh garlic for any dish where I want that sharp garlic flavor, and love my little garlic chopper when I need to chop a lot quickly.  But for lots of recipes, especially when the garlic is going to be simmered in a sauce, soup, or stew, I like the convenience of pre-peeled garlic cloves, or (gasp) even minced garlic in a jar.  What I don't like is paying too much money for little jars of minced garlic that only last a week or two, so I started making my own pre-minced garlic for the freezer.  Here's how I do it.

I'm a fan of these Christopher Ranch Garlic Cloves, and buy them at Costco where this huge bag is $4.99.  (This product used to come in a jar.)  I can't use this big bag of garlic cloves before they start to go bad in the fridge, so I came up with the idea of mincing the garlic and freezing it.

I minced the garlic in my food processor fitted with the steel blade.  I wanted chunky minced garlic, so I pulsed the machine on and off until I had the texture I wanted.  You could let it go longer for garlic puree.

via www.kalynskitchen.com

Brussels Sprouts + Kimchi.

Kimchi is apparently being touted as a bacon substitute in light of the impending Bacon Armageddon when shit is supposed to hit the price-fan next year. SF Gate and Food52 shared this recipe of a chef inspired charred Brussels sprouts dish mixed with chopped kimchi. A few things come to mind:

1.) Kimchi goes great with everything. Brussels' sprouts, sure.

2.) The dish would be even better if it had bacon in it (though the whole point of the piece was what to do with sprouts in light of a bacon shortage).

3.) Why not just make a kim chi out of Brussels' sprouts? Leave 'em whole or cut them in half. Eat it with pork belly (uncured/unsmoked cut of pig used to make bacon). 

I know, I'm not helping the bacon situation. 

TT National | Kimchi Pancake with Coca-Cola Braised Beef Tongue, Pickled Jalape�os and Scallion Salad in Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette | TastingTable Recipes

We asked four pioneering Korean-American chefs to collaborate on one recipe for our October Monthly Edition. The result: Korean Pancakes with Coca-Cola-Braised Tongue, Pickled Jalapeños & Scallion Salad in a Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette.

Korean Pancakes with Coca-Cola Braised Tongue, Pickled Jalape�os and Scallion Salad in Soy-Ginger VinaigretteRecipe adapted from Danny Bowien, Mission Chinese Food, New York City and San Francisco; Dennis Lee, Namu Gaji, San Francisco; Hooni Kim, Danji, New York City; Bill Kim, Urban Belly, Chicago

We asked four pioneering Korean-American chefs to collaborate on one recipe for our October Monthly Edition. The result: Korean Pancakes with Coca-Cola-Braised Tongue, Pickled Jalapeños & Scallion Salad in a Soy-Ginger Vinaigrette.

via www.tastingtable.com

I completed my first ever relay (Red Rock), might as well keep the streak going with a relay that's more up my alley (and far less painful, I might add). Check out Tasting Table's witty Korean Recipe Relay. Nice to see the pungent cuisine of my people continually getting props.